Get ready for a fashion revolution! The iconic Versace brand is making a bold move, and it's a decision that's sure to turn heads. Pieter Mulier, the creative genius behind Maison Alaïa, is stepping into the spotlight as Versace's new Chief Creative Officer.
But here's where it gets controversial... Mulier is taking over from Dario Vitale, and the fashion world is buzzing with anticipation. With his appointment effective July 1, Mulier will be reporting directly to Versace's executive chairman, Lorenzo Bertelli. This move has been in the works for a while, with WWD breaking the news back in December, confirming Mulier as a top contender.
And this is the part most people miss: the intricate web of connections and decisions that led to this moment. Last Friday, Alaïa announced Mulier's departure after their summer-fall 2026 show. Bertelli revealed that the decision was made long ago, as far back as autumn 2024, when they were already considering investing in Versace. Mulier was identified as the perfect fit for the brand's creative direction, and Bertelli believes he will unlock Versace's full potential.
"Versace's identity is distinctive and clear," Bertelli said. "Pieter will know how to reinterpret the brand without reinventing the wheel." But here's the twist: while Mulier is taking the creative reins, Versace's CEO, Emmanuel Gintzburger, is staying put, putting to rest persistent rumors of his exit.
Bertelli also praised the previous owner, Capri Holdings, for their focus on protecting the brand's signature line. Going forward, Versace will leverage synergies with the Prada Group, but it will remain a separate entity. Bertelli will continue his role as head of CSR and marketing director for the Prada Group, ensuring a smooth transition.
As for Alaïa, they're already searching for Mulier's successor, and there's speculation that they might revisit their strategy of focusing on prominent No. 2 designers, which led to Mulier's selection in the first place. Among the potential candidates is Julian Dossena, the creative director at Rabanne, known for his precise and glamorous designs.
Before joining Alaïa, Mulier worked closely with designer Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Christian Dior, and Calvin Klein. His fashion career began in Antwerp, working on the men's label for Raf Simons. He then expanded into womenswear and accessories, always under Simons' creative guidance.
When Simons moved to New York to become chief creative officer at Calvin Klein, Mulier stepped into the role of creative director, executing Simons' vision for both men's and women's ready-to-wear, as well as accessories. The two Belgian designers have maintained a friendly relationship, and Mulier is a regular at Prada shows in Milan, where Simons co-directs with Miuccia Prada.
At Alaïa, Mulier developed a unique and directional style, focusing on craftsmanship, quality, and timelessness. His sculptural volumes and architectural constructions in ready-to-wear, along with strong accessories like the Le Teckel bag and ballerina shoes, have attracted a younger audience while retaining loyal customers. Alaïa's parent company, Compagnie Financière Richemont, has praised Mulier for being a "notable growth driver," with the brand more than doubling in size since his arrival.
The Prada Group's acquisition of Versace from Capri Holdings for 1.25 billion euros last year set the stage for this move. Donatella Versace, who had been the creative director for almost three decades, stepped down and was succeeded by Vitale. Market sources suggest that Vitale was aware of the Prada Group's interest in acquiring Versace even before he left Miu Miu, and that Mulier was being considered for the role.
Sources indicate that Compagnie Financière Richemont was reluctant to let Mulier go, as he had been revitalizing the brand since 2021. However, the Prada Group was determined to have him lead their newly acquired brand.
Bertelli aims to return Versace's image to a style more aligned with the iconic Gianni and Donatella Versace, moving away from Vitale's direction. Mulier's debut collection in September received mixed reactions, with retailers praising his colorful and bold designs, but leaving many observers confused.
According to a source, Bertelli has had discussions with Donatella Versace and her daughter, Allegra, finding common ground in their vision for the future of a family-led company. The connection between Gianni Versace and Azzedine Alaïa, contemporaries who rose to fame in the '80s and '90s, adds an intriguing layer to this story. Naomi Campbell, who called Alaïa "Papa" and Versace a mentor, presented the CFDA's International Designer of the Year Award to Mulier in November, bringing the story full circle.
This fashion shake-up is a testament to the dynamic nature of the industry. With Mulier at the helm, Versace is poised for an exciting new chapter. The question remains: will Mulier's vision resonate with fashion enthusiasts and critics alike? We invite you to join the conversation and share your thoughts on this bold move in the comments below!
